On the seats and beds, in the salon and in the bow, white rugs were attached to the side wall, which served for the insulation. This interior insulation with the appearance of WC-mat not only looked extremely unsightly but also stank and had foxing in many places. More about that right now.
The ceiling cladding was no longer symmetrical and arched at the edges, the plywood paneling around the windows much apart on both sides.
Yes, a L22 and the L23 are very spacious inside. They remind me a bit of a KNAUR caravan from the 70s. My L22 was painted white by the previous owner and the kitchen was red accentuated. The upholstery looks light and cheerful. The rug was "Oldschool PVC Blues"
Left: The ceiling panels are easy to remove. You can see well the laminated rafters on which later the new panels will be attached. The panels were also moldy on the inside in some places.
Left: Also in the storage space has deposited on the bare wood mold. It is removed and the surfaces are treated intensively with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), then the wood is sealed.
Above: In the bow area (bunk + sea toilet), the carpet can be easily removed from the ship's side. Underneath, however, is the carpet adhesive, as was glued to the carpet in all other places to the fore. He has to go down!
By the way, the hatch has to go of course!
Carpet remains are roughly removed with the multitool and then removed completely with a flap grinder.
Today I have removed the sea toilet, because this place just looks pretty bad, as you can easily see in the pictures. Since I could not rule out wether water had been deposited, I flexed away the console. What should I tell you, … under the console "JABBA THE HUTT" had been sleeping ... but at least water did not accumulated there. This toilet sneeze will be reworked with fiberglass and a new console. The sea toilet will be converted into a hybrid toilet and will be used on the one hand as a sea toilet and on the other as a composting toilet, but more if the renovation is completed.
First of all, I decided to renovate the windows without removing them, which means removing the old sealing putty and scraping the sealant between the glass and the aluminum frame as far as possible. With the Flex (with diamond wheel) around the windows, I have milled a joint into the fiberglass, which will later be grouted with Sikaflex. I do the same between glass and frame.
Today, I taped the windows, pre-treated the joints with Sikaflex primer and then, after the drying time, filled the joints with Sikaflex 211,
The rubber between the disc and the frame I pulled out with a spatula. The spatula I have for it, as seen in the picture at the outer edges sawn in each case a hook. This makes it easy to scratch out the old, porous and leaky rubber.
In a window there is water in the frame. I drove thin wooden wedges between the disc and the frame so that the water can evaporate before I can continue working there.
Today I started to re-seal the glued discs, inside and out with Sikaflex. With a small spatula I pressed the Sikaflex into the very narrow joints very elaborately before the typical conclusion was drawn with the Spüli-finger. Incidentally, I took a UV-resistant Sikaflex for outdoor use.
Refit break until 26.9.19 ;-)
Also on the port side, the windows are almost completely renovated. However, the storm and the rain of the past few days have stopped me a bit. Tomorrow the sun will shine again and I will be able to finish the windows on port side from the outside.
Then it goes on with the interior, the polyester resin has arrived ;-)
I do worry al little about the windows. I do not like to take them out, but there will be no other way out, because I have to be quite sure before the interior work, that the windows do not allow any water inside. However, the plywood around the windows was completely wavy and had peeled apart layer by layer.
Here I definitely need an exchange of experience with other L22 / L23 boatbuilders.
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