On the seats and beds, in the salon and in the bow, white rugs were attached to the side wall, which served for the insulation. This interior insulation with the appearance of WC-mat not only looked extremely unsightly but also stank and had foxing in many places. More about that right now. The ceiling cladding was no longer symmetrical and arched at the edges, the plywood paneling around the windows much apart on both sides.
Left: The ceiling panels are easy to remove. You can see well the laminated rafters on which later the new panels will be attached. The panels were also moldy on the inside in some places.
Left: Also in the storage space has deposited on the bare wood mold. It is removed and the surfaces are treated intensively with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), then the wood is sealed.
Above: In the bow area (bunk + sea toilet), the carpet can be easily removed from the ship's side. Underneath, however, is the carpet adhesive, as was glued to the carpet in all other places to the fore. He has to go down!
By the way, the hatch has to go of course!
Adhesive residues are roughly removed with the multitool and then removed completely with a flap grinder.
Today I have removed the sea toilet, because this place just looks pretty bad, as you can easily see in the pictures. Since I could not rule out wether water had been deposited, I flexed away the console. What should I tell you, … under the console "JABBA THE HUTT" had been sleeping ... but at least water did not accumulated there. This toilet sneeze will be reworked with fiberglass and a new console. The sea toilet will be converted into a hybrid toilet and will be used on the one hand as a sea toilet and on the other as a composting toilet, but more if the renovation is completed.
I do worry al little about the windows. I do not like to take them out, but there will be no other way out, because I have to be quite sure before the interior work, that the windows do not allow any water inside. However, the plywood around the windows was completely wavy and had peeled apart layer by layer.
Here I definitely need an exchange of experience with other L22 / L23 boatbuilders.
Today, I've tested quite casually, if the color over the gelcoat can be removed with a stripping agent. The answer is a startling YES. It came four layers to light. Yellow, below orange and below white again. It is clear that the gelcoat had originally been white.
First of all, I decided to renovate the windows without removing them, which means removing the old sealing putty and scraping the sealant between the glass and the aluminum frame as far as possible. With the Flex (with diamond wheel) around the windows, I have milled a joint into the fiberglass, which will later be grouted with Sikaflex. I do the same between glass and frame.
Today, I taped the windows, pre-treated the joints with Sikaflex primer and then, after the drying time, filled the joints with Sikaflex 211,
The rubber between the disc and the frame I pulled out with a spatula. The spatula I have for it, as seen in the picture at the outer edges sawn in each case a hook. This makes it easy to scratch out the old, porous and leaky rubber.
In a window there is water in the frame. I drove thin wooden wedges between the disc and the frame so that the water can evaporate before I can continue working there.
Today I started to re-seal the glued discs, inside and out with Sikaflex. With a small spatula I pressed the Sikaflex into the very narrow joints very elaborately before the typical conclusion was drawn with the Spüli-finger. Incidentally, I took a UV-resistant Sikaflex for outdoor use.
Also on the port side, the windows are almost completely renovated. However, the storm and the rain of the past few days have stopped me a bit. Tomorrow the sun will shine again and I will be able to finish the windows on port side from the outside.
Then it goes on with the interior, the polyester resin has arrived ;-)
Windows - Windows - Windows - Windows - Windows - Windows - Windows - Windows - Windows
So, my getaway is over. The heavy rains of the past 2 days have shown that the windows are now completely sealed.
Today I started to take measurements for the frames on which the panel and the wooden strips are to be attached. For this I cut in the first step about 4cm wide strips of cardboard from old banana boxes and kinked at right angles and then stuck with a hot glue gun vertically to the inner wall, exactly where later a bulkhead should be attached. The loose ends of the cardboard strips I then again connected / glued with long cardboard strips, so that this is a stable structure. Then I carefully removed the entire cardboard construction with my spatula from the side wall and later applied the curves to a large cardboard.
I was surprised how well you can design a template in this way and how well it fits.
Overnight, I glued two waterproof plywood panels together with epoxy so that it had twice the thickness. Today I sawed out the first frame with my jigsaw and was pleased that it fit ;-)
.... But before all the frames for the salon can be made and installed, the holes and open areas in the inner side wall must be sealed with polyester resin and GRP mats. On the port side (right photo), the chaise longue must first be built.
… Now the open crevices (on port
side) are also tightly laminated.
…. Here the laminate is already applied.
The cardboard template for the seat is made and applied to the plywood.
.... fitted and screwed.
The seat is already very stable.
But I will continue to work here later.
The planks for the recamiere
be sawn ...
Today I continued to work on the toilet and removed the sea cock since the actual toilet is turned into a compost toilet and no longer needs any connections.
After unsuccessfully trying to unscrew the old valves, I first trimmed the valves with the flex and in the second step, carefully braided the last screw just above the large washer (directly on the hull) severed …
This page is no commercial ... The link to the Davidswerft is my benefit for Editha and David, who stand here for me with warmth, space, advice and action.