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Dismounted sailing ship goes to Lieblingsdaycruiser

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A new deck hatch - The round must be in the square ;-)


The original hatch has been valiant for 46 years. But it is not up-to-date, does not close well and does not let any light into the ship. The new hatch is from LEWMAR and she is round. I sawed a 24 cm thick boat plywood board to the dimensions 60 x 60 cm. … More next weekt. ...

The dried primer can be very well filled and sanded.

The sawed base is laminated with epoxy resin

The hatch base is already primed with 2K primer and will later be painted together with the deck. The installation can only be done when the deck has been reworked.

Preparatory work outdoors.

Before the deck can be sanded in the coming weeks, everything has to be removed bit by bit, which does not hinder the grinding and painting work.

... The pulpit and the pushpit have to go down.

... look like this ;-)

Warm up and work dry soon


Today I sanded the paint with my orbital sander to the test. There are a total of 5 layers of paint appeared.


Since the hull and the deck will be sandblasted in the coming week, everything that disturbs must be dismantled. The 50-year-old rub rail is ramshackle and I simply flexed off all the screw heads and just pulled off the old molding. There was a lot of dirt behind the bar.


Seit gestern wird die Leisure gesandstrahlt und die Aussenarbeiten am Schiff nehmen nun die meiste Zeit ein. Das Schiff wird dann auch äußerlich wieder ganz frisch aussehen.


So, the varnish is  blown off and in the next step I have to fill in the osmosis and other damage in the gel coat. I let the boat dry again for now.


Of course, the grate has to get off the keels before they can be painted with epoxy primer (VC-TAR2). I got cleaning discs (see photo) for the Flex to grind off. Then I roughened the surface with a scrubbing disc so that the primer holds better.


The outside temperatures are around 20 degrees Celsius and that is the best condition, to work without a hall on the hull.

By sandblasting the hull revealed the slight osmosis damage in the gelcoat and the hull is covered with small holes.

A special epoxy filler is now applied to the damaged areas with the spatula. The filler is very fine, dries quickly and does not shrink.

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Building a outboard well

Finally rain again after the much to dry April. The ship is covered and I've started building the engine bay.

It has the dimensions 40 x 50 cm. here it should later be possible to attach an 8 HP ultra-long shaft outboard so that it can still be operated with the tiller from the cockpit.

The outboard well will  insert approximately in the middle of the stern locker. To do this, I have to open the stern and saw a rectangular cutout in the brand new stern extension. The outboard engine cover and the engine itself will then be in the rear area of ​​ the cockpit and the propeller at about the lower end of the old stern.

The box consists of 0.8 cm (0,32 Inch) boat building plywood and was covered ,inside and outside, with approx. 1.5 mm epoxy resin and fiberglass.

Exciting thing ;-)


The hull is now filled to 80%. In the next step, it has to be ground. ... I start with 60 sandpaper, and than getting finer and finer.


After one month of compulsory pause, the filling and sanding work on the hull and deck continues.

Very pleasant when you have a covered place in the dark and humid season ;-)




Because of the sandblasting, I have many very small and large areas in the surface that have to be filled and sanded. The filling and sanding work on the hull and deck will take at least 2 months.


The hull and deck should be ready for painting by the end of January at the latest.


The grooves on the seats and the cockpit floor are closed because teak should be on them.



I have the painting appointment on February 8, 2021 and now work as often as I can on the hull and deck to properly prepare the surface.


Unfortunately, at the moment I have little to report about the rather uniform work. But that will change again in February.


I am currently restoring the cockpit and closing two recesses in the floor as teak will be on it later.

Layer by layer, the glass fiber mats soaked with epoxy resin are getting bigger and bigger, I sealed the concave depressions a few days ago.

In addition to the grinding work, the open boat outlets also have to be closed. Before I can apply several layers of epoxy-soaked fiberglass mats, the area around the holes has to be sanded concave.


The bow and the stern have a wall thickness of 10mm.


In the middle of the boat the wall thickness is only 5mm.


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