LEISURE 22

Mein Blog zum Leisure 22 bzw. Leisure 23 Refit und Instandsetzung

reFIT

Dismounted sailing ship goes to Lieblingsdaycruiser

> bottom of page / topical theme

A new deck hatch - The round must be in the square ;-)

22.11.2019

The original hatch has been valiant for 46 years. But it is not up-to-date, does not close well and does not let any light into the ship. The new hatch is from LEWMAR and it is round. To begin, I sawed a 24 cm thick boat plywood board to the dimensions 60 x 60 cm. …

The dried primer can be very well filled and sanded.

The sawed base is laminated with epoxy resin

The hatch base is already primed with 2K primer and will later be painted together with the deck. The installation can only be done when the deck has been reworked.

Preparatory work outdoors.

Before the deck can be sanded in the coming weeks, everything has to be removed bit by bit, which does not hinder the grinding and painting work.

... The pulpit and the pushpit have to go down.

... look like this ;-)

Warm up and work dry soon

3.12.2019

Today I sanded the paint with my orbital sander to the test. There are a total of 5 layers of paint appeared.

22.02.2020

Since the hull and the deck will be sandblasted in the coming week, everything that disturbs must be dismantled. The 50-year-old rub rail is ramshackle and I simply flexed off all the screw heads and just pulled off the old molding. There was a lot of dirt behind the bar.

25.02.2020

The Leisure has been sandblasted since yesterday and the exterior work on the ship now takes up most of the time. The outside of the ship will look fresh again.

27.02.2020

So, the varnish is  blown off and in the next step I have to fill in the osmosis and other damage in the gel coat. I let the boat dry again for now.

20.3.2020

Of course, the grate has to get off the keels before they can be painted with epoxy primer (VC-TAR2). I got cleaning discs (see photo) for the Flex to grind off. Then I roughened the surface with a scrubbing disc so that the primer holds better.

6.4.2020

The outside temperatures are around 20 degrees Celsius and that is the best condition, to work without a hall on the hull.

By sandblasting the hull revealed the slight osmosis damage in the gelcoat and the hull is covered with small holes.

A special epoxy filler is now applied to the damaged areas with the spatula. The filler is very fine, dries quickly and does not shrink.

Wait a moment, the images are loading!

1.5.2020

Building a outboard well

Finally rain again after the much to dry April. The ship is covered and I've started building the engine bay.

It has the dimensions 40 x 50 cm. here it should later be possible to attach an 8 HP ultra-long shaft outboard so that it can still be operated with the tiller from the cockpit.

The outboard well will  insert approximately in the middle of the stern locker. To do this, I have to open the stern and saw a rectangular cutout in the brand new stern extension. The outboard engine cover and the engine itself will then be in the rear area of ​​ the cockpit and the propeller at about the lower end of the old stern.

The box consists of 0.8 cm (0,32 Inch) boat building plywood and was covered ,inside and outside, with approx. 1.5 mm epoxy resin and fiberglass.

Exciting thing ;-)

3.5.2020

The hull is now filled to 80%. In the next step, it has to be ground. ... I start with 60 sandpaper, and than getting finer and finer.

17.10.2020

After one month of compulsory pause, the filling and sanding work on the hull and deck continues.

Very pleasant when you have a covered place in the dark and humid season ;-)

4.11.2020

Final filling and sanding work at temperatures down to -5 degrees Celsius.

The teak floor for the cockpit is ready, now the seats in the cockpit area are next.

 

Only dare to create your teak work! I'm doing it for the first time too.

The teak work has now progressed so far that the seams of the wood can be sealed.

 

It is quite a laborious job to tape everything on beforehand so that the hem gets a proper Sikaflex cove.

30.11.2020

20.11.2020

Because of the sandblasting, I have many very small and large areas in the surface that have to be filled and sanded. The filling and sanding work on the hull and deck will take at least 2 months.

 

The hull and deck should be ready for painting by the end of January at the latest.

 

The grooves on the seats and the cockpit floor are closed because teak should be on them.

12.12.2020

13.1.2021

I have the painting appointment on February 8, 2021 and now work as often as I can on the hull and deck to properly prepare the surface.

 

Unfortunately, at the moment I have little to report about the rather uniform work. But that will change again in February.

 

I am currently restoring the cockpit and closing two recesses in the floor as teak will be on it later.

30.1.2021

Layer by layer, the glass fiber mats soaked with epoxy resin are getting bigger and bigger, I sealed the concave depressions a few days ago.

In addition to the grinding work, the open boat outlets also have to be closed. Before I can apply several layers of epoxy-soaked fiberglass mats, the area around the holes has to be sanded concave.

 

The bow and the stern have a wall thickness of 10mm.

 

In the middle of the boat the wall thickness is only 5mm.

26.12.2020

Before I started painting, I sanded the ALU window frames. Before that, the area around the frame was of course properly masked off, in order to then polish the frame more and more finely with increasingly finer sandpaper (180 - 1200).

7.2.2021

8.2.2021

The boat was finally brought to the Davidswerft today for painting. Really exciting ;-) ... Once there, the boat had to warm up first, as we are currently -4 degrees Celsius outside. Then mask everything that was not masked off and finally clean the entire surface of adhesive residues etc. with a special cleaner and a lint-free cloth. Then the primer comes on.

I can't get enough of the pre-painted rear extension ;-)

9.2.2021

READY AT LAST !!! Yesterday and today the boat got at least 3 layers of Hempel's Lightprimer, a total of 10 liters, with the paint spray gun.

Now everything has to dry for 2 days.

When everything is dry, the visible indentations have to be filled again and then the primer has to be sanded completely smooth with a 320er grit sandpaper.)

The primer cannot be sanded yet, so today all visible depressions are filled with Würth VAKU 60, but it is better to fill it with white polyester-filler !!!

18.2.2021

Today the deck was painted in signal white in the shipyard. I am very satisfied with the result.

22.2.2021

Today the hull was painted in the color “pearl gentian blue” (RAL 5025).

23.2.2021

When the tarpaulin is down, you can see where the boat is going.

4.3.2021

The boat is with me again and now the deck superstructures can be prepared for assembly and the teak deck will be built in the coming months.

 

I'm currently preparing a new pulpit, which I bought used, but which needs new feet to fit. The height also had to be adjusted.

7.3.2021

In the past year I kept buying teak wood through eBay classifieds.

 

Now it can be installed on the deck, the stern extension or, as here, in the cockpit.

 

It all starts with creating a cardboard stencil.

21.3.2021

I sawed the teak strips to size with my band saw and sanded every single element to size with my edging bench.

 

I glued the joints with Sikaflex 290 DC, beforehand I pretreated the edges to be glued with Sikaflex Multiprimer Marine so that everything would stick together later.

28.3.2021

More and more teak surfaces are emerging and I'm slowly getting a feel for working with wood.

 

Symmetry is especially an issue in the bow area. Since you quickly notice that a boat cannot really be made completely symmetrical, sometimes a little challenge :-)

9.4.2021

When gluing, it is essential to ensure that the teak can slip away on inclined surfaces if you put weights on it to weigh it down, so the wood must be secured against slipping with tape.

28.4.2021

The teak work. progress very slowly. Many small steps are necessary so that everything will look good in the end. Before gluing the joints, the edges of the teak must be protected with tape. The joints had to be cleaned with acetone beforehand. This will need time. When the grout is solid after 2-3 days, it can be sanded flat with the excenter grinder.

In between I made a tiller from 5mm thick ash and teak strips by gluing the individual strips together with epoxy resin.

28.4.2021

I am a member of the   Leisure Owner Association

> IMPRESSUM